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Charts, Calculations, and Useful Info
This is info I have found all over the net through out the years. It is useful in deciding your lift, how big of a tire will fit, gear ratio, choice, and ride qualities. It also address's winches and their choices. As more info is found I will post it.


I'm looking for a 79 cheyenne brushed aluminum dash bezel. You know the thing that surrounds your gauges. An


Alignment Questions:

Caster is the fore or aft slope of the steering axis. The steering axis is a line drawn through the upper and lower ball joints of the knuckle. Positive caster is when the bottom of the steering axis line is in front of the tire's contact patch. Zero caster is when the steering axis is at 0o. Positive (shown) caster ensures good stability, helps maintain straight-ahead direction and promotes steering wheel self-centering. Too much positive caster causes hard steering, excessive road shock and shimmy.

Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the front tires as viewed from the front. Inward tilt is negative, outward tilt is positive. Camber is used to distribute load across the entire tread. Improper camber makes the tire wear on one edge, and causes the vehicle to pull to the side that has the most positive camber.

Toe is the side-to-side difference in distance between the front and rear of the front tires. If the distance is closer at the front, it's called toe-in. If the difference is closer at the rear, it's called toe-out.
The Basics on Choosing a Lift System
These areas have the greatest impact on overall vehicle derivability and capability: 1) suspension 2) tires 3) drivetrain. Keep in mind that the key is to get all three vehicle systems working together to provide the best possible traction at all times.
Most of us own trucks and sport utility vehicles that serve multiple roles; our 4x4 is primarily a daily commuter, with its other duties being a weekend project work mule, with possibly a little towing thrown in, and a sometimes offroader. In this "multi-use" situation, the goal is to find the proper balance between on-road suspension stability and off-road suspension flexibility. If you have the luxury of a dedicated off-road vehicle, some of its higher speed handling traits can be sacrificed to maximize suspension articulation.
What suspension system will work best for you depends on four basic factors: 1) vehicle type and stock suspension specifications, 2) what the vehicle will be used for, 3) desired tire size, 4) your budget.
Because of all of the variables, odds are that a "one size fits all" suspension kit is not going to get the job done satisfactorily. Superlift allows you to tailor build a system with your specific budget and performance needs in mind. The various "builds" are listed in the Application Guide. No one offers more lift methods and options than Superlift.
Ride Quality and Lift Height:
Vehicles have springs that fall into three different categories: leaf, coil and torsion bar. For coil and leaf springs, the general rule is that the taller the spring is, the stiffer it is. On most coil and leaf spring equipped rigs, ride firmness will remain close to stock on lifts up to 4". From there up, ride becomes increasingly firm. On vehicles with torsion bars our suspension lift alone does not noticeably change ride quality because the torsion bars are not replaced. Firming-up the ride isn't always a bad thing; some factory suspensions are too soft.
These factors greatly impact ride quality:
1) On leaf springs suspensions, your choice of Superlift Heavy-Duty or Superide leafs.
2) Using multi-shock kits and add-a-leafs will firm-up the ride.
3) Tire type and their operating air pressure... Larger diameter tires normally have more sidewall flex which softens the ride and increases body roll. Conversely, a bias-ply tire (non-radial) run at maximum air pressure will stiffen ride quality.
These factors influence ride quality, plus they affect how much net suspension lift is attained:
4) What factory suspension package the vehicle has, and it's condition.
5) Adding additional weight, such as a winch, bumpers, storage boxes, extra fuel capacity, etc..
6) Track width is is the distance from outside of tire-to-outside of tire.
On all torsion bar IFS vehicles and Ford's TTB vehicles, the leverage exerted on the springs increases as track width increases; the wider tires / wheels make longer levers. This added leverage brings ride height down slightly. If really wide tires/wheels are used, or the vehicle is exceptionally heavy, the vehicle may set too low and/or the ride may be too "spongy". In some cases heavier rated torsion bars may be needed in order to reach maximum lift height. Heavier torsion bars are available from your local 4x4 shop or new car dealership parts department.
On coil spring equipped TTB vehicles, these leverage and weight related problems are addressed by using slightly heavier rated coils and / or shims that install under the coils.
Some Commonly Asked Questions About Lifting A Vehicle
1) Q: How will a lift kit affect my new vehicle warranty?
A: The Specialty Equipment Market Association, a trade group that works on behalf of aftermarket performance manufacturers, has a complete list of your rights regarding warranties and aftermarket equipment. Generally speaking, the dealer can only refuse warranty work if an aftermarket part caused the failure. For more information, see SEMA Consumer Warranty Rights. www.sema.org
2) Q: Where can I purchase Superlift equipment?
A: Superlift sells T-shirts, caps, decals and such, and videos direct to the consumer. For more information, see our 4xAdventure Gear Guide. Everything else is sold through dealers. If your local 4x4shop, truck accessory or auto parts store does not carry Superlift, have them contact us about becoming a Superlift dealer. Or see the Dealer Directory or call us toll-free to locate a nearby dealer that stocks Superlift.
3) Q: How complicated is the installation?
A: Installation time and complexity varies greatly from application to application. Generally speaking, lifting a vehicle with Independent Front Suspension (IFS) is more involved than lifting a vehicle with solid axles front and rear. To get a general idea of the amount of time required to install a specific lift, go to the Product Installation Time Guide.
4) Q: Can I get a copy of the lift?s Installation Instructions?
A: Yes? see the Installation Instructions Library. Certain instructions can be downloaded directly from our site, while others can be ordered and mailed to you for a nominal fee.
5) Q: What is your warranty?
A: It is a Limited Lifetime Warranty. In summary, it covers the original purchaser (you) for as long as you own the vehicle the product is installed on (normal wear items excluded). For the entire legal mumbo-jumbo version, see the Warranty.
6) Q: How can I get a copy of your catalog?
A: Send us all of your money in cash (in small untraceable bills), and we will send back what is not needed. Seriously though, the info packet is only $5 and you can get lots of extras for free. Contact us for more information.
7) Q: How will the lift system affect my vehicle?s ride quality and handling? How much less stable will it be?
A: There are more variables here than there are Clinton jokes. So many things influence the above, for example: basic suspension type * lift type and height * tire type, width and air pressure * wheel / rim width and offset * vehicle curb weight and weight distribution * and the list goes on. The bottom line is that driveability traits will change, but the degree of change varies. On vehicle stability, the general rule is: ?the taller a vehicle, the easier it will roll over?, but conversely, it is not unusual for moderately lifted vehicles with moderately taller and wider tires / wheels to be as stable or more stable than their stock counterparts. The key is to take time to learn these new capabilities and limitations, and to drive responsibly. See Lift Kit Basics for more insights.
8) Q: What size tire can I run with a given lift height?
A: See the Lift Height vs. Tire Size chart.
9) Q: When installing taller tires, at what point is it a good idea to change axle gear ratios?
A: See the Gearing Up for Taller Tires article and chart.
10) Q: How can I find out if my state has any laws regarding lift systems?
A: The best place to find out if any laws exist regarding lift height in your state is to contact the state?s Department of Motor Vehicles. Due to the different regulations that states cover lift height under (bumper height, frame height, headlight height, etc.), it is impossible for Superlift to keep track of them all. To get a general idea, check out this lift height article from Truckworld.com.
11) Q: Why can?t lift blocks be used at the front axle?
A: Using lift blocks on the front is never a good idea because:
1) When used on the front axle, blocks are subjected to increased side loads when cornering, which can cause them to fail by ?rolling out? from under the springs. This, in turn, will cause a loss of vehicle control.
2) Most blocks are tapered. If the tall end is installed facing towards front-of- vehicle, it worsens caster angle; if the tall end faces rear it worsens driveshaft angle.
3) Most factory front springs are fairly weak. Blocks increase the leverage load on these already weak springs which really compounds spring / axle wrap-up.
12) Q: Are longer spring shackles OK?
A: While many aftermarket shackles offer strength improvements over stock shackles, there are some problems associated with longer-than-stock shackles:
1) Some shackle side-to-side flex is required, but excessively long ones flex too much, causing bad handling traits.
2) When longer shackles are installed at the front end of your front springs it creates a more negative caster angle, resulting in bad handling traits.
3) Most factory springs are fairly weak. In most cases you are better off replacing them.
4) Longer shackles reduce approach and departure angles because they hang down lower than stock shackles.
5) Keep in mind that longer spring shackles will only give half the lift of their increased length over stock. For example, a shackle that is two inches longer than stock will only give one inch of lift because only one end of the spring is lowered.
13) Q: Superlift offers three methods of rear lift (for most vehicles): blocks, add-a-leafs, or new leaf springs. What are the pros and cons of each method?
A: Lift blocks Blocks simply space the springs away from the rear axle and are the most economical way to lift the rear of a truck. Ride quality and spring strength / flexibility are unaffected because the stock springs are retained. However, blocks will increase the springs? tendency to wrap-up when under hard acceleration and load. Trucks that are good candidates for blocks must already have satisfactory spring strength, must not be used extensively for heavy hauling or towing, and are not already equipped with tall factory blocks.
B: Add-a-leafs Rear add-a-leafs, commonly used in conjunction with blocks, are a good lower-cost alternative to replacing the stock rear leaf springs. They combat spring / axle wrap-up by beefing-up the spring and reducing lift block height, or by eliminating blocks altogether. Both full-length and overload replacement types are offered (see add-a-leaf application charts for more information). Add-a-leafs do increase rear spring rate, so the rear of the vehicle will feel slightly more stiff than stock. Stock springs with add-a-leafs are the preferred choice if the vehicle is used for towing / hauling.
C: Replacement Springs These are the answer for vehicles with broken or extremely fatigued stock springs, or for vehicles registered in states that limit or exclude the use of lift blocks. All of Superlift?s replacement rear springs have Superide design characteristics. Expect ride quality to be slightly firmer than stock. Consider that when called upon to haul additional weight, most replacement springs will initially ?squat? more rapidly than stock springs. Since replacement lift springs have more arch, they must compress more before their bottom overload leafs engage.
What works best for you boils down to vehicle type,
it?s condition and how it is used.
14) Q: Will I need to change shocks when installing a body lift?
A: No. Since a body lift does not change the distance between the vehicle frame and the axles, new shocks are not a ?gotta do? when installing a body lift. Be aware though, that most standard factory shocks are cheesy at best, and last about as long as a Mike Tyson pay-per-view fight. The same applies for factory steering stabilizers. Check the condition of the mounting bushings, and the cylinders for signs of fluid loss.
15) Q: Why is the suggested amount of rear lift less than the front lift on most of your kits, especially on lifts for trucks?
A: The vast majority of non-modified pickups set about two inches high in the rear when empty. This is so the truck?s rear end will not be excessively low when the truck is loaded. With most people that lift their rigs, towing and load carrying is not a priority lifted performance, tire clearance, and vehicle ?look? are the primary issues. A more level stance is desired, and extra room is needed on the front, so the tires can clear the fenders when turning. Also, a more even front-to-rear attitude improves an unladen vehicle?s weight distribution which generally improves its handling when not carrying a load. Note that on most applications you have the option of altering rear lift height and /or method.
16) Q: How will lifting my truck affect the driveshafts?
A: Driveline correction methods are incorporated into virtually all of Superlift?s suspension systems. For example, our rear lift blocks are tapered to rotate the axle pinion upward to reduce driveline angle and eliminate vibration. Our replacement springs have a tapered degree shim attached, where applicable, to accomplish the same thing. Rolling the pinion upward also restores some shaft spline contact. More on driveshaft length - - generally, shafts must not be lengthened unless the suspension lift height is over 6?. Check out the Installation Notes in your vehicle?s section of the online catalog. Unless specifically noted, there is normally no need for replacement or lengthened driveshafts when the lift components are installed properly.
17) Q: What is the difference between Superide and heavy-duty rear springs?
A: Superide springs are designed to yield the best possible ride quality. Heavy-duty springs are designed for use on vehicles equipped with accessories that add a significant amount of weight, such as a winch or snowplow, or vehicles that are subject to extreme use. See Technical Information for more on Superide and heavy-duty springs.
18) Q: What is the benefit of the Superunner steering kit?
A: Superunner steering kits for TTB Fords offer dramatic improvements in handling and driveability over the stock steering system when used with most 4? to 6? lifts. For more information, check out steering component section of Ford Product Information.
19) Q: What is the benefit of Superunner radius arms?
A: Superunner radius arms offer several benefits, like better control by providing more consistent alignment throughout the suspension?s travel cycle, and improving ride quality. See the coil spring independent front suspension section of Ford Product Information.
20) Q: What do limiting straps do?
A: Limiting straps decrease the possibility of damaging suspension components by preventing overextension.
21) Q: Why does my vehicle need steering correction components with a lift?
A: Steering linkage spans the distance between the vehicle?s steering sector, at the frame, and the steering knuckles, that are located where the front tires / wheels attach. Linkage operating angles increase as lift height does. Increased steering linkage angles can cause poor handling characteristics such as bump steer, wandering, and / or darting. In severe angle situations, tie-rod end stud bind and failure can occur. Stud bind is when linkage operating angle exceeds the tie-rod?s ability to pivot. ?Rule of thumb? is that vehicles with a 4? or taller suspension lift require some sort of steering correction. For more information, refer to the steering section for your specific vehicle.
22) Q: Why can?t I find a taller lift for my truck?
A: As suspension lift designers, we must take what the factory design gives us. For example, an older leaf sprung General Motors pickup can be lifted up to 12?, and depending on its running gear, feasibly run the largest tires. But, because of its factory design, the newer versions (1988 and newer) of the same General Motors truck is not receptive to being lifted in excess of 6? to 7?. Its steering linkage and front IFS axle is considerably lighter-duty than its solid axle predecessor, and does not hold up well when exposed to tires in excess of 36? tall. Generally speaking, if Superlift does not offer a system as tall as you think you need, you shouldn?t go there.
23) Q: Will I need longer brake hoses?
A: The need for longer brake hoses varies with vehicle type and lift height. However, longer brake hoses or relocating the factory hoses should be considered whenever a lift exceeds 4?. Refer to the specific vehicle section for more information on your application.
24) Q: Do you have kits for two-wheel drive trucks?
A: Superlift offers several two-wheel drive lifts for Ford trucks as well as other applications. Refer to the online catalog for more information.
25) Q: What is the difference between a pitman arm and a steering arm?
A: A pitman arm attaches to the steering sector shaft on the steering box. A steering arm (on solid-axle Chevys, for example) attaches to the axle knuckle.
26) Q: Can I lift my IFS truck by adjusting the torsion bars?
A: Yes? sort of. Unless the bars are overloaded (due to the presence of a winch, snow plow, etc.), it is possible to gain one inch or so of lift by adjusting-up the factory torsion bars. There are potential problems though, that center around the lack of suspension extension travel. When the bars are adjusted-up too high, the upper control arms continuously top-out against their travel stops. This creates a very harsh ride, and accelerated suspension component wear. Also, the vehicle may not have adequate adjustment for alignment. Superlift recommends that you refer any suspension adjustments to a qualified mechanic.
27) Q: Do I need to have my truck aligned after installing a lift?
A: The need for front end realignment following the installation of a lift varies according to make, model and suspension design. Refer to the specific product information section of the online catalog. Even if an alignment is not required, it should be part of your regular maintenance regimen to ensure proper handling and tire wear.
28) Q: Can I disconnect the anti-sway bars?
A: The factory-installed anti-sway bars greatly improve the vehicle?s handling characteristics. However, they significantly limit the suspension?s ability to articulate in off-road situations. Anti-sway bars should only be disconnected during slow-speed off-road situations that require increased suspension travel.
29) Q: Are bumper brackets included with my body lift?
A: Some do, some don?t. Refer to the Body Lift Application Guide.
30) Q: I put a winch (or snowplow) on the front of my truck. How do I correct the sag in the front end?
A: Superlift offers a complete line of components specifically designed for applications with additional weight on the front end, including add-a-leaves, coils, and replacement leaf springs. Refer to the online catalog for more information.
31) Q: Do you have polyurethane bushings for stock springs?
A: Superlift has an extensive line of polyurethane components for most four-wheel drive trucks. Refer to the Bushing Application Guide for more information.
32) Q: Where is an add-a-leaf placed in the spring pack?
A: The length of the add-a-leaf dictates its placement. Long add-a-leafs are normally installed directly beneath the main leaf (the leaf with the spring eyes). Short add-a-leaves are placed towards the bottom of the spring pack. Refer to the Add-A-Leaf Section for more information.
33) Q: What do traction bars do?
A: Traction bars decrease the amount of rear axle wrap that occurs during acceleration, which transmits more traction to the tires. Traction bars offset the extra wrap-up caused by weak springs, tall lift blocks, large tires, towing / hauling, and lots of horsepower / torque. Superlift offers a unique and highly rated line of traction bars. Refer to the Supertrac Traction Bar Section for more information.
34) Q: I?m not familiar with a lot of the technical terms used when talking about
suspension. Is there a dictionary or something available?
A: Yes. Refer to Super Speak? a Glossary of 4-Wheel Drive and Superlift
Terminology.
35) Q: I?d like to lift my truck, but my friends lifted Ford (1978 ½ ton pickup) wanders all over the road. Do lifted trucks just steer bad or what?
A: A properly lifted and aligned vehicle steers fine. Most wandering, darting and other bad handling traits can be traced to problems with alignment, tires and / or steering component wear. Loose suspension or steering system fasteners is also a common culprit. On your friends Ford, the most common problem is a caster angle that is too negative. Caster alignment on this family of Fords is corrected by installing radius arm lowering brackets
and / or degreed C-bushings.
36) Q: You Superlift guys rule! It would be too cool if one of you would date my sister!
A: We get this a lot, and we always try to accommodate the customer, but we are manufacturer of aftermarket suspension and steering components for 4WD vehicles - not a dating service, although if you have pictures feel free to send them in - were always looking for promo photo's.
38) Q: What does it take to become a Superlift model?
A: Send a photo, along with pertinent vital stats, to the Superlift Board of Babes at our corporate office address.
38) Q: Can I get the name and phone number of a certain Superlift model?
A: No.
39) Q: How can I get my truck into your catalog, in one of your ads or on your web site?
A: Take several shots of your vehicle from all angles, make sure the lighting is good and there are no shadows. Look through our catalog or web site and look at our ads to judge your photo. Send them to our Ad depatment at our Corporate HQ address : 211 Horne Lane, West Monroe, LA 71291. Please no electronic files. Photos can not be returned so do not send negatives. Include all information about the vehicle and all aftermarket products used on it. Most importantly make sure we know lift height, body lift height (if any) tire size, make and manf., and wheel size make and manf. You should also include a letter that gives us the right to use the photo free of charge. Once we have all of this your photo will be judged against our criteria for photo usage. I will be rated either as web use only or as grade A. HINT: It will make it easier to jude the photo suitable for use if Superlift Products and logos are visible and that the competitions logo's are not.
Glossary of Terms:
Anti-sway bar links - The anti-sway bar assembly consists of two primary parts: a "U" shaped tubular body that spans from one side of the vehicle to the other, and two links (one per side) that connect the body to an anchor point. With some suspension lift designs, the bar body is relocated or longer
links are used to compensate for a lift system.
Anti-sway bar pre load - As lift height increases the sway bar body pivots and begins to pre load. This pre load puts extra stress on the links and reduces suspension flexibility. Proper bar geometry is restored by relocating the body or by using longer links.
Articulation - As in suspension articulation. This is how well each axle, or each wheel, will travel and "twist-up" whn traversing an extremely off-camber obstacle. When offroad, you want as much articulation as possible to keep the tires on the ground and getting traction. As suspension manufacturers, we search for the right balance of off-road articulation and on-road stability.
Bump steer - Caused by a number of alignment problems, bump steer is when a vehicle darts or wanders excessively when operated on a less than ideal driving surface... in other words, it takes a concentrated effort to keep the vehicle in a straight line.
Camber angle - See diagram on page 6. Camber is impacted the greatest when lifting a vehicle with Independent Front Suspension (IFS).
Caster Angle - See diagram on page 6. Caster is impacted the greatest when lifting a vehicle that has radius arms, like the 1969 to 79 one-half ton Fords, and the TTB family of Fords.
Centerlink - A centerlink is found on IFS vehicles that have upper and lower control arms. It is a piece of steering linkage that connects the pitman and idler arms. A tie rod connects to each end of the centerlink. On some lifted trucks, the Original Equipment (OE) centerlink is replaced by a "dropped" centerlink.
CNC - Stands for "Computerized Numerical Control". Term describes a type of control system used on a piece of manufacturing equipment. CNC machines offer unsurpassed accuracy and repeatability.
Coming soon - A term associated with new product introduction that informs you that we are working on it, or will be "soon", without painting ourselves into a corner by actually giving a concrete available date. In reality, this period of time can range from three weeks to 48 months. "Oh, in about sixty days" is the verbal equivalent of "coming soon".
Compression travel - A measurement of the amount the suspension will compress before it bottoms-out against its travel stop. This travel stop is also called a "bump stop" and "jounce stop".
Control arm - Control arms, also called "A-arms" because of their shape, are found on all IFS suspensions listed in this catalog except for the Ford TTB. There is one upper and one lower arm on each side. They have a balljoint on the outboard end and connect to the frame on the inboard end.
CSS - Stands for Centerlink Stabilizing System. A dropped centerlink tends to pivot fore and aft excessively when turning force is applied. The CSS uses one or two links to tie the centerlink to a crossmember and prevent this excessive movement.
Curb weight - How much the vehicle weighs when loaded with normal compliment of passengers, fuel, gear etc..
CV axle - Stands for Constant Velocity axle. With a control arm style IFS, they are the rubber or plastic booted axle shaft assemblies (one per side) that bolt to the differential housing flange on the inboard end, and mate to the hub / knuckle on the outboard end.
DOM - Stands for Drawn Over Mandrel. The term specifies a certain type of tubular steel that has exceptional strength, forming, and welding characteristics.
DOT - Stands for (Federal) Department Of Transportation.
Drag link - A piece of steering linkage that connects to a pitman arm on the upper end and a tie rod or knuckle on the lower end. On lifted vehicles, sometimes an Original Equipment (OE) drag link is replaced by a "dropped" drag link to reduce linkage angle.
Driveability - The sum of the vehicle's driving traits and mannerisms. Handling, steering traits, and ride quality are the major categories that influence driveability. The question is how will a particular suspension alteration impact driveability?
Driveshaft angle - The angle of the driveshaft in relation to the pinion yoke (at the differential) or the output yoke (at the transfer case). Driveline vibration, bind-free driveshaft operation and shaft length are influenced by driveshaft angle.
Extension travel - A measurement of the amount the suspension will extend before it tops-out against it's travel stop.
GVWR - Stands for Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. This information is provided by the vehicle manufacturer and is located on a tag generally found on the driver side door jamb. It tells you how much total weight, including occupants, fuel, bed load, etc., the vehicle is rated to carry.
Idler arm - An idler arm is found on IFS vehicles that have a centerlink. The idler arm supports one end of the centerlink while the pitman arm supports the other.
IFS - Stands for Independent Front Suspension. With this type of suspension, the wheels travel independently of each other. The IFS covered in this catalog are either control arm types or Ford TTB.
Knuckle - An iron or steel casting at the outboard ends of the axles that the spindle / hub / wheel assembly connects to. Replacement knuckles are used on lifted IFS vehicles when the lower control arms are lowered, but the upper control arms cannot be lowered.
Nodular Iron - What Superlift knuckles are made from. The material's composition does not mean squat to 99.99% of Earth's population; just trust us when we say that it is great stuff.
OE or OEM - Stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. In this catalog an OEM is the actual vehicle manufacturer like Ford, GM, etc..
Organic gardening gone wrong - You'd just have to see it.
Pitman arm - This steering component splines onto the steering sector output shaft. The opposite end connects to a drag link or centerlink, depending on steering system design. On a dropped pitman arm the drag link attachment point is moved down to reduce link angle.
Pre set coil springs - Pre setting means fully compressing the coil spring (so that the coil wraps are actually touching each other) in the manufacturing process. This reduces the amount of coil sag and extends coil service life.
Radius arm - These are found on 1966-79 Fords with coil spring / solid axle suspension, and 1980-96 Fords with coil spring TTB. The arms (one per side) run basically parallel with the frame rails. They locate the front axle and prevent fore and aft axle movement. Caster angle must be addressed when lifting a radius arm equipped rig more than 2".
Solid axle - A one-piece axle housing design that has rigid axle tubes all the way out to the knuckles. Good examples of vehicles with solid front axles are the 1966-79 Fords and the 1969- 87 GM trucks.
Spring rate - A measurement of force (in pounds) required to compress a spring a given distance (in inches). Be careful when comparing rates since all manufactures do not use the same measuring procedures.
Steering arm - This forged steel component bolts to the front axle knuckle. It's opposite end attaches to the drag link. A raised steering arm is taller to reduce drag link angle.
Steering wheel kick - This malady is most noticeable when you are driving in a straight line and the suspension compresses (like when going through a highway dip at speed). The steering wheel will move slightly, but the vehicle continues to track straight ahead. On vehicles with a track bar, this is caused by the track bar and drag link arc of travel being out of phase with each other. Normally, a slight amount of steering wheel kick is noticeable on lifted leaf sprung / solid axle GM vehicles equipped with any raised steering arm.
Stud bind - When a tapered stud, found on a tie rod or track bar end, over extends it's pivot capability. This is a byproduct of excessive operating angles.
SUV - Stands for Sport Utility Vehicle. These are usually multi-passenger wagon type rigs, not pickup trucks.
Tie rod - A section of steering linkage. One thing that all tie rods have in common is that the outer end always attaches directly to the knuckle.
Toe - See diagram on page 6, or take off a shoe. A steering alignment term.
Track width - The measurement from outside of tire-to-outside of tire.
Track bar - Found on both coil and leaf sprung rigs, it helps locate and stabilize the front axle. Generally, when lift exceeds 2", the bar must be relocated or lengthened.
TTB - Stands for Twin Traction Beam, Ford's four wheel drive Independent Front Suspension system from 1980 to 1996.
Turning radius - A measurement of the distance required to turn a vehicle.
Wheel travel - A measurement of the total amount of available suspension travel; from full compression to full extension.
Wrap-up - Referred to as both rear spring and rear axle wrap-up. As power is applied, torque load causes the rear pinion to pivot upward. Once this load reaches a certain point the leaf springs begin to deform, which stresses numerous driveline components. The "fix" is to increase spring strength, via add-a-leafs, or install Super-trac traction bars.
Rear spring in static position Spring "wrap-up" under torque load
Winch Questions:
Q) What is the difference between the XD9000 and the XD9000i?
XD9000 has remote mounted solenoid pack and 100 feet of cable. XD9000I has integrated solenoid pack and 125 feet of cable.
Q) What is the difference between the M8000 and the X8000i?
M8000 has a remote mounted solenoid pack and two cable length options, (80 & 100 ft). X8000I has integrated solenoids and 100 ft of cable. The M8000 with 80 ft of cable comes with a hawse fairlead instead of the roller fairlead that comes on the X8000I or M8000 with 100 ft of cable. (Note) M8000 with 80 ft of cable is part number 20910 M8000i with 100 ft of cable is part number 26502.
Q) Why do I have to send my winch somewhere else for warranty? Why not the dealer I purchased it from?
Warn requires that you send your winch to a factory authorized repair facility because they have factory trained personnel, as well as service parts in stock to handle your warranty problems.
Q) Where can I get parts for my old Warn - Belleview winch?
Sorry, other than wire rope or fairlead, there are no longer any service parts available for this winch.
Q) How much oil do I use in my M8274? What type?
6 oz of SAE 30wt Non-detergent oil.
Q) How come your catalog says "Lifetime Warranty" but my dealer says the motor is only one year?
The catalog states the warranty as "Limited Lifetime" not lifetime warranty and sometimes the two terms get confused. The gear train is limited lifetime and the electrical components are warranted for one year, this includes the motor. (NOTE) If you are interested in a copy of the warranty and what is covered, please call Warn's customer service department at 1 (800) 543-9276 and any of our representatives would be happy to send you a copy for the Warn product you are interested in purchasing.
Q) What is the maintenance schedule for my winch?
Warn recommends that anytime the winch is submerged or exposed to extreme adverse conditions the winch should be sent to an authorized service center for inspection and service. On the M8274 the brake pawl should be greased annually and checked frequently for freedom of movement. It must move freely or the brake will not operated properly.
Q) What is the stall rating on your winches?
The winch is rated on the first layer of cable on the bare drum. The rated pulling capacity for a winch is the "stall" for that winch.
Q) What is the duty cycle on your winches?
Warn winches are rated for intermittent use. Many factors will effect the duty cycle of a winch. These factors would include: Battery condition, heat, age of winch, length of cable off the drum, and the condition of the electrical system in the vehicle.
Q) What do you recommend I use to grease my wire rope with?
Warn uses a high quality aircraft grade of galvanized wire rope. Therefore, our wire rope does not require any lubrication from the factory. There are spray lubricants that can be purchased thru wire rope dealers and can be used if desired, but they are not required.
Q) I have heard that there is a new synthetic winch rope made from Kevlar. Are these ropes better than traditional wire ropes?
Warn Industries does not recommend using synthetic wire rope on a Warn winch.



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